Melbourne is a big, modern city, and although it is known for its laneways, most of them are at least wide enough for a car. But there’s a tiny laneway off Lonsdale Street, near Exhibition, which is barely big enough for two people to pass each other. The buildings on either side are made of old brick and whenever I walk down there there’s the ghost of the 19th century hovering – all the hustle and bustle of the Little Lon quarter in it’s heyday juxtaposed with the sound of 21st century traffic.


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